I’m very excited to offer you cards with your packages this holiday season. With so many options, you are sure to find a card that suits you! The prices above are good through December 1. Clients always receive competitive holiday card pricing.*

But what if you recently had a portrait session? Feel free to use a picture from any session you had in 2015 with Tiffany Palmer Photography if you are simply looking for a card this season. Ask me for a catalog!


Book a session before November 1, and you will receive a framed 8×10.

Contact me today via the link above to schedule your session or simply click here to book online.

*The fine print:

  1. You can order additional cards in increments of 25; check with me on pricing if you want more information.
  2. To book a session, a nonrefundable retainer of $50 is due; balance can be paid at time of session. This retainer can be transferred to a new time if you have to change your session for any reason.
  3. Cards are 5×7, front and back.
  4. After December 1, there will be a rush charge added to any holiday package if you want pictures before Christmas.
  5. Please keep in mind the sun sets around 7 pm during October, so the latest session would be 6:15 and arriving late to this session will reduce time with natural light. Sunset will be even earlier in November; weekends would probably work better for the evening “golden hour” photos if clients have an 8-5 schedule.
  6. Location will be determined on a per client basis.
  7. Morning light is great, too, so if any clients out there are happy morning people, let’s meet bright and early!




Meet Emily, owner of Little Bits by Emily

This session was to help Emily enhance her online presence. She is such a joy to talk to and really cares about your health, inside and out. Here’s a brief description from her website about her products.

“All Little Bits by Emily body care products are made with REAL ingredients, no fillers, and dōTERRA® essential oils. I only use what’s necessary to make a wonderful product.”

Since I’m in the process of saying buh-bye to chemicals, this photo session was timely. If you are looking for some natural products, and you don’t have time to whip up your own, Emily would love to assist!


If you are looking to update your small business website or just need a new head shot or profile picture, book your session here. Say you saw this post and receive a 10% discount!

Photography Session: Product/Business

Location: Arboretum area


It was a girls night for this bunch. Little cowgirl boots, big personalities, dolls, and a willow tree. Love!


Session: Family

Location: Butler Park

Tiffany Palmer Photography


Last tutorial, I shared with you how to improve the aesthetics of your pictures using better composition. From that post I had a few questions about other techniques, so I used one of those questions for this next tutorial.

Exposure – the decent kind

Sometimes it’s hard to expose a photograph the way that our eyes see. Using our eyes, we can see the inside of a room and objects outside a window all at the same time. A camera does not have the same dynamic range. (Go to the link to learn more.) Either you have to expose for the inside, leaving window areas blown out, or you expose for what can be seen outside the window, leaving the inside very dark. For this post, you will probably need a post-processing or photo editing software and an off-camera, high speed flash is preferable, though the flash that comes with your camera will suffice. However, see my examples below for more information. (Please note that I always shoot in manual mode – a post for later, perhaps, but try auto, aperture, or shutter-priority mode on your camera. Play! Play! Play!)

Let us begin –

Here is an image where I exposed for the inside of a room without a flash (warning: not a great photo! – just took pictures for demonstration purposes). Notice the window area is completely blown out. Again, this isn’t a big deal unless you really want people to be able to see what is outside the window or find the window area distracting.

Exposure tutorial-7

Here is an image where I exposed for the window, leaving the inside in darkness. (The light was on in the room when I took this photo, just fyi.)

Exposure tutorial

So what do you do?

You can increase your camera’s dynamic range several different ways. You can take two different pictures, one exposing for the window and one exposing for the room. (If you are using a pre-programmed or auto mode on your camera, it’s going to expose wherever you are focusing.) Then, you can go to a post-processing software to blend the photos, like Photoshop. Obviously, this will add to your time, which some of you may or may not have. Some cameras come with a bracketing feature which will help you with taking several different photos at different exposures. You can reference your camera’s manual to see how to access this feature, if you have it. With bracketing (and probably a tripod so the camera doesn’t move), the camera automatically takes 3-5 pictures ranging from low to high exposures. Again, you then access a post-processing software, which will blend/merge the photos for you, taking less time. Software like Photomatix or Lightroom will do this for you. (It’s called HDR imaging. Some people can carry the HDR to extremes, leading to some interesting photos, but I prefer to keep mine looking as naturally as possible.)

But let’s say you don’t have time to spend blending photos and want to have the dynamic range straight out of the camera (sooc). Here is where a flash comes in handy. A high speed flash attached to a hot shoe on the top of your camera is best (and there are some affordable versions out there). It is possible to use the pop-up flash on your camera, but that flash points right at your subjects, increasing shadows. This flash is a harsh light, even if you take that flash to its lowest setting. (Check your manual for how to decrease the power of your on-camera flash.) A flash that gives you options as to where you point the light can make a huge difference in your pictures.

Here is a picture of the same room exposing for the outside but adding a high speed flash. The flash is pointed towards the ceiling, a natural reflector spreading and softening the light. I would probably adjust the white balance in post-processing since the room light is casting a slightly yellow hue.


Here are some images of the room using the flash that came with my camera. It’s not horrible, except I see really harsh shadows on the items in the room and a really white light. You want to avoid the harsh shadows, if possible. With images like these, you can probably adjust some of the harshness in post-processing.

Exposure tutorial-8

Exposure tutorial-10The flash helps increase the dynamic range of your images, allowing you to see both inside and outside like your eye.


When might you use this technique? Sunrise/sunset photos will demand this technique should you want to capture the colors in the sky while also getting light on your subjects. Exposing inside and outside areas at the same time is also key for real estate photography, especially if the property you are shooting has a great view, and you want to capture that for the real estate agent/potential buyers.

As with any photography rule, they are made to be broken. You can expose for the sky or window and capture the silhouette of your subject, which can make for some very lovely photos. So, don’t back yourself into a corner. Have fun! Be creative!

This might take more energy and time than the composition steps, but I do encourage you to try it if you are looking for better dynamic range in your images. Share some of your pictures if you do practice; I would love to see your work!


Back in the day, I used to sell Creative Memories scrapbooking supplies and teach classes on the subject. “Hmm,” you say, “How interesting…” as you walk away. Come back! This is going somewhere. While scrapbooking, or crapbooking, as a male friend described it, I learned that the eye tends to naturally hit the top right side of a page first, then it circles around in a backwards six motion. In scrapbooking, this means placing the best or most important photo on the top right side of a page or two page spread, but then I transferred that same info into the photos themselves.

My pictures improved because I began applying the same rule looking through the camera. I began sharing with others how to frame subjects in the viewfinder with the most important part in the top right area. This is highly nontechnical in its description, but it works. Left-handed people may find they prefer the left side of a photograph and place more important things on that side, but even in web design or other artistic avenues, the right side gets the most attention first. If you want to get technical, think of the Golden Ratio or Rule of Thirds (please tell me the lamp in the third photo bothers you as much as it does me).  If you have heard of the rule of thirds, it might actually be seen as an approximation of the Golden Ratio.

If you have Photoshop (and maybe other photo processing software includes the same features), you have the option of displaying these overlays when you are deciding how to crop an image if you need to. For instance, in this first image, you see the Golden Ratio grid. Christian’s face is close to being in the right place, but I still would crop this photo a wee bit (see the next image). I also want to get rid of the black part in the bottom left of the photo – very distracting.

Golden Ratio

Below is an overlay of the Rule of Thirds grid. You can see if I was using this, which I did, I would crop a little more of the black post that is on the right side of the page, centering Christian’s face in the top right grid intersection.

Rule of Thirds

The triangle overlay is really helpful with diagonals in your photo – or so is the diagonal overlay, but hopefully you are beginning to see how composition makes a difference in how eye-pleasing your photos can be.


Final crop! Notice this crop removed the distractions, even the small part of Christian’s hand in the original image needed to be gone. Now our eye naturally hits the main subject of the photo first.

Final Crop



Gather some photos and look at them. Where is your eye drawn first? And then where does it want to go?

For instance, in the photo below (with poor composition, in my opinion) – I look to the top right first – either the lights or the empty space/air vents before I am drawn to the actual peeps in the photo. This photo would be more aesthetically pleasing with better composition – placing the subjects in better position in the viewfinder first. Of course, this is what you get with a 50mm lens when you would prefer a 24-70 but you didn’t want to pack every lens you owned for a 4 day vacation in NYC.

NYC13 composition

Some other quick tips regarding composition:

Read the articles linked above for a start.

Your subject needs space to look into so try to frame accordingly. If your subject is looking to your right, then placing them on the left side. If the subject is looking to your left, move them over to the right side of the viewfinder. There are many examples on the web covering this subject.

See if your camera has the option to display the grid in your viewfinder, so you can start seeing pictures in a new light. Practice using these overlays in some fashion, and soon your composition will improve. You will spend less time processing photos because they will be better at the start.